A change of plans today. Originally, I was going to hike with Cooper and Scarlett, but the smoke was very bad. Since my heart was set on seeing some rock and snow, and my pack was already loaded with a couple of treats, I set out alone.
This mornings sun filtered with smoke.
The sun came up red at 7:30. Luckily, the trail started in the cool bush and climbed quickly. It always seems to take me an hour or so before I work the kinks out and start to feel comfortable. I spotted a lone black bear cub that scattered quickly into the trees. This is the second one I’ve seen this year without its momma around. Hopefully, she was just off in the bush.
The wildflowers were abundant on the slopes and along the trail; paintbrush, columbine, fireweed, potentilla, violets, white pasque flowers, mountain forget-me-nots, and many others.
The pikas let me know I was intruding once I’d made it into the alpine, while buntings and creepers followed me through the forest. The smoke cleared somewhat at the higher elevation. Looking back down, I could see just how thick it was below. Definitely not a day for the kids.
Rising above the smoke on the trail.
I opted for the back of the basin, keeping close to the mountainside where there was at least a little shade from the sun.
There was still snow in the basin. Being August, perhaps it will remain all year, something I haven’t seen for many years. I always think that if a little snow remained each year, it wouldn’t take long to build the glaciers back. When I say “not long,” I mean geologically speaking, hundreds or thousands of years. The moraine I crossed was once covered in ice. Before that, it lay beneath an ancient ocean. Cracking shale in this area often reveals fossils of sea creatures from that distant time. The Rocky Mountains are full of places like that.
The snow felt good beneath my boots, and I promised myself I’d walk across it on the way back instead of picking my way down the loose rock, which is tough enough going up.
I reached the back of the basin at about 11:30. Time to pissass around, as my father used to say. I wandered among the rocks and flowers and found a small tarn the melting snow had created.
Once I stopped moving, I could hear voices.
There was no way anyone else would be up here. From this perch I would have seen anyone coming or going. I stood perfectly still, slowed my breathing, and there they were again. They were far enough away that I couldn’t make out what they were saying, but they were voices nonetheless.
Or so I thought.
This went on for a while.
Finally, I stopped once more and calmed my breathing. There they were again, faint, as though carried from somewhere in the distance. I held my breath, trying to catch a word.
The voices stopped.
I started breathing again, and they started up.
Damned if it wasn’t a wheeze in my chest that sounded exactly like distant conversation. Perhaps the smoke was worse than I thought, and the quick ascent had caught up with my lungs. That gave me a good laugh.
Not my favourite to walk on.
As promised I stayed off the rolling rocks on the way down. The sun was unavoidable by then, but it felt good as I crossed the lingering snow. From there I retraced my route through the rocks, into the bush, and down to the creek bottom where I’d left the truck.
Very fine day.
Columbine
Tamarack
Palliser Pass 
Anonymous
I, too, have heard those voices, which is why I am so thankful that I can see the backcountry, vicariously, through you. Great day! Great post!
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underswansea
Thank you! I’ve always had voices in my head now I’ve got them in my chest! 😄
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Anonymous
it’s good to have friends.
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mountaincoward
Those are really great photos! That twin-peaked mountain is a steep stunner – is it walkable from another direction? The loose rock looks dreadful – very ill-sorted, large pieces and very loose – that would be a nightmare to walk on. I think that much snow remaining in August will definitely last all summer as I think your weather goes really cold again soon doesn’t it?
What is the lovely red flower? And those Columbine look like daffodils. I had no idea you had potentilla growing in your mountains – I find them very hard to buy here but I love them – such reliable flowerers and so long-flowering.
I often have a wheeze or sometimes even a crackle in my chest going uphill. Your smoky shot of the distant hills and the valley actually makes for a lovely soft photo.
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underswansea
The twin peaks mountain is a sheer cliff on the side in the photo. You head straight for that mountain at the start of the hike. Then veer off to the side and follow the bush. Although I never have, when reaching the first plateau you could follow an easy ridge of wind blown tamaracks to a short scramble to the top. I don’t believe there would be a trail as most people continue to another mountain and ridge that is higher than that mountain. I thought of you on this hike, I kept thinking you would want to be on top of one of these mountains. I took another route that is less travelled that took me to a basin just below two 9000ft peaks that are both easily accessible by a short scramble, though much of it through that loose rolling rock.
I am hoping the snow stays. The red flower in the photo is called Indian Paintbrush and is very common in the mountains.
The smoke has gotten worse since this. Although we are not nearly as bad off as some places in British Columbia, the smoke now completely obscures the mountains.
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mountaincoward
Apparently we’re having lots of large-scale fires in the UK this year too – mostly down south where it’s been very hot. Our fells look very dry here though – all the grass is pretty dead. I feel sorry for the cows behind my house as they’ve more or less eaten all their grass now in their 2 large fields
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Jim R
I enjoyed your photos and being able to virtually go along for the hike. Thanks for that.
I do have some concern about you heading out on a trek alone in places with bad footing, etc. Do you tell others where you are going? I know. I am being a nag. Just some thoughts I had to share. 🙂
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underswansea
Hi Jim, thanks for your concern. My father taught me very strict rules for setting off into the back country. You must always tell someone exactly where you are going and when you will be back. Those rules must never be broken regardless of how much fun you are having or if you see another route that looks more interesting. In my case Lisa knows where I am going and I will often phone her once back in the valley bottom where we get cell service, even when I’m early, because she can worry. It is funny how many people don’t follow these rules.
I take it a lot easier now. On this hike into the basin I was just below two 9000 ft mountain tops with only a short scramble to the top. I even had time to do it, but I would have deviated from the route. And I’m getting a little old.😀
It sure is nice getting out though. I hope you and Melanie are doing well. Take care.
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Jim R
Good for you. Your father taught you well.
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underswansea
I forgot to mention, the Perseid meteor shower doesn’t look good for us here because of the smoke. It’s disappointing because the peak happens on a new moon and I’ve been looking forward to it. I hope you have clear skies.
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Jim R
It doesn’t look good here either. boohoo!
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Carol A. Hand
A lovely post, although I was slow to comment until after reading the news this morning. I was alarmed when I read about the fires In BC, Bob, and hope you and your family are safe. Sending healing thoughts… 🪶
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underswansea
Thank you for your kind comment and concern Carol. The fires in B.C. are bad this year. We have several burning close but not threatening any private property or dwelling. In these cases they are often left to burn or they are somewhat ‘controlled’. The worst fires in B.C. are in the south central part of the province where it is very dry. It is here that there are mass evacuations and many homes have burned.
The smoke is very bad here however. Many people with breathing issues find it difficult and try to stay inside.
I hope you are doing well and your skies are clear. Take care.
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Julie@frogpondfarm
Your photography is something else Bob! And the landscape is so beautiful! Damned fires … hoping you and the family are well away from them!
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